Natural Dyes: A Comprehensive Review on Medicinal Plant-based Pigments and Culinary Herbs as Flavor Enhancers

 

Payal N. Vaja1*, Chetan H. Borkhataria2, Hiral S. Popaniya3, Chintankumar J. Tank4

1Assistant Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

2Assistant Professor, Department of Pharmaceutics, B.K. Mody Government Pharmacy College,

Rajkot (360003), Gujarat, India.

3Assistant Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

4Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

*Corresponding Author E-mail: payalvaja55@gmail.com

 

ABSTRACT:

The global demand for natural dyes has surged, propelled by a growing awareness of the therapeutic properties inherent in these dyes. Derived from a variety of sources such as plants, insects, animals, and minerals, natural dyes have garnered attention as safer alternatives to synthetic colorants, many of which have been banned due to their potential to cause allergy-like symptoms or pose carcinogenic risks. Notably, plant-based pigments among natural dyes exhibit a diverse array of medicinal values. This review provides an in-depth exploration of various types of dyes, highlighting the distinctions between natural and synthetic counterparts and delvloping into their wide-ranging applications. The adverse effects associated with synthetic dyes are discussed, emphasizing the need for sustainable alternatives. The paper also offers a compilation of information on synonyms, biological sources, chemical constituents, and uses found in naturally occurring dye-yielding plants, aiming to contribute to the development of pharmaceutical and cosmeceutical formulations. This comprehensive review amalgamates the realms of natural dyes and culinary herbs, offering valuable insights into their medicinal and culinary significance.

 

KEYWORDS: Natural pigment, Synthetic dye, Herbal, Cosmetic.

 

 


INTRODUCTION:

Since ancient times, people have marveled at the captivating natural colors found in plants and minerals, utilizing them to enhance beauty. The recent surge in popularity of natural dyes and colors for food, medicines, and textiles reflects a growing global awareness of the potential hazards associated with synthetic colors1. The escalating demand for products derived from natural materials underscores this shift in consumer preferences.

 

Colors wield significant influence in daily life, shaping our perceptions of various objects, from fabrics to foodstuffs and medicines. This influence significantly impacts people's choices and preferences. The widespread use of colorants across industries such as food, cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, nutraceuticals, and textiles aims to enhance consumer perception and acceptance. Colorants can be broadly categorized into three groups: inorganic, synthetic, and natural colors. Natural colors, derived from plants, animals, and microorganisms, are gaining traction as a preferred choice. In contrast, synthetic colors, crafted in laboratories, do not occur naturally and involve chemical synthesis to produce the required organic chemicals. Inorganic colors, exemplified by minerals like gold, silver, and titanium dioxide, can either be naturally occurring or created synthetically2. The contemporary surge in the global demand for natural dyes can be attributed to the heightened awareness of the advantageous properties associated with these dyes. Stringent restrictions on several synthetic colorants, due to their potential to induce allergic reactions or carcinogenic effects, further underscore the shift towards natural alternatives. Notably, plant-based pigments stand out among natural colors, offering a diverse array of therapeutic benefits. This confluence of consumer awareness and health considerations is propelling the resurgence of natural dyes in various industries3.

 

Types of dye:

Natural Dye:

Natural dyes are organic compounds derived from various naturally occurring sources, including plants (e.g., indigo and saffron), insects (e.g., cochineal beetles and lac scale insects), animals (e.g., certain mollusk species or shellfish), and minerals (e.g., ferrous sulfate and clay). Notably, natural dyes are obtained without undergoing any chemical processing. The primary sources of natural dyes are vegetable dyes derived from plant components such as roots, berries, bark, leaves, and wood. Additionally, organic sources like fungi and lichens contribute to the rich array of natural dyes4.

 

Synthetic Dye:

Synthetic dyes are produced using chemicals derived from petroleum by products and earth minerals. Often referred to as "coal tar dyes" due to their origin from coal tar, these synthetic dyes were first discovered in 1856. Synthetic dyes exhibit characteristics such as long-lasting color, heightened brightness, and cost-effective production. Notably, their production costs are lower compared to natural dyes. Synthetic dyes are known for their enhanced stability, displaying resistance to factors like heat, light, and the concentration of hydroxyl ions. This resilience makes synthetic dyes more durable than their natural counterparts5.

 

Problems associated with synthetic dye:

Numerous health issues have been linked to the synthetic dyes used in cosmetics. The main class of synthetic dyes, azo dyes, interacts with skin micro flora, liver cells, and intestinal microbes. These dyes have a number of carcinogenic, mutagenic, and genotoxic effects. Moreover, these azo dyes cause a variety of skin issues. Synthetic dyes are considered as xenobiotics which are more harmful to environment. Among other things, 1, 4-diamino benzene, a substance found in azo dye, causes skin rashes, contact dermatitis, blindness, vomiting, and hypertension. The majorities of synthetic dyes are harmful and have an adverse reaction on human skin5. Dyes such as anililine are flammable which may cause several hazardous effects. Heavy metals that are extremely harmful to humans, like lead and cadmium, may be included in some synthetic dyes. According to studies, the textile industry is the biggest producer of colored waste water. Approximately 20% of the dye used for dyeing textile fibres is not fixed and is deposited in the waste water, resulting in a high level of pollution6. Some colors are manufactured by using harmful chemicals such as heavy metals such as arsenic, lead that can cause life-threatening disease7.

 

Figure 1: Classification of natural colorants8


 

 

 

 

Table 1. Scientific Classification of plants

Plants

Kingdom

Division

Class

Order

Family

Genus

Species

Turmeric9

Plantae

Magnoliophyta

Lilopsida

Zingiberales

Zingiberaceae

Curcuma

C.longa

Saffron10

Plantae

Magnoliophyta

Lilopsida

Asparagales

Iridaceae

Crocus

C. sativus L.

Palash11

Plantae

Magnoliophyta

Magnoliopsida

Fabales

Fabaceae

Butea

Monosperma

Annatto13

Plantae

Tracheophyta

Dicotylendonae

Malvales

Bixaaceae

Bixa

B. Orellana

Madder13

Plantae

Magnoliophyta

Dicotylendonae

Rubiales

Rubiaceae

Rubia

Cordifolia

Shoeblack Plant14

Plantae

Magnoliophyta

Magnoliophyta

Malvales

Malvaceae

Hibiscus

Hibiscus rosasinensis

Tagetus15

Plantae

Magnoliophyta

Magnoliopsida

Asterales

Asteraceae

Tagetes

Erecta

Henna16

Plantae

Tracheophyta

Magnoliopsida

Myrtales

Lythraceae

Lawsonia

Lawsoniainermis

 


Various Plants: Applications in Cosmetics, Culinary Delights, and Pharmaceutical Formulations for Medicinal and Beyond:

1.     Turmeric:

Turmeric is obtained from the dried, as well as the fresh, rhizome of Curcuma longa Linn, belonging to the Zingiberaceae family17-18. Turmeric contains volatile oil, including oil- cineol, zingiberene, and sesquiterpenes, along with starch, resins, and curcuminoids19. The primary active constituent among curcuminoids is known as "curcumin," constituting 50-60% of the composition3. Currently, more than 235 compounds, primarily phenolic compounds and terpenoids, have been identified in turmeric. These include diarylheptanoids and diarylpentanoids, phenylpropene, other phenolic compounds, monoterpenes, sesquiterpenes, diterpenes, triterpenoids, sterols, and some alkaloid compounds. Curcuminoids, the polyphenolic compounds responsible for turmeric's yellow color and various activities, consist mainly of 71.5% curcumin (curcumin I), 19.4% demethoxycurcumin (curcumin II), and 9.1% bisdemethoxycurcumin (curcumin III)20.

 

Figure 2: Curcumin21

 

Uses:

Curcumin serves multiple roles as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, hypolipidemic, antiseptic agent, expectorant, anti-rheumatic, anti-alzheimer, and anti-aging agent. It has also demonstrated efficacy in treating acne and psoriasis22. Acting as a powerful immune modulator, turmeric, traditionally used as a home remedy for wound healing, finds application as a coloring agent in various cosmetic preparations such as ointments, lotions, and creams23-24. Turmeric has anti-microbial, anti-septic and anti-inflammatory properties25.

 

2.     Henna:

It consists of fresh and dried leaves of the plant Lawsonia inermis Lam., which belongs to the family Lythraceae26-27. The chief active constituent of the leaf is lawsone (0.5-1.0%). Other constituents in the leaves include gallic acid (5-10%), white resin, sugars (glucose and mannitol), tannins, xanthones, fat, and mucilage. Flavonoids such as luteolins and apigenin, coumarins (scopletin, fraxetin, esculatin), steroids (β-sitosterol) are also present28-29.

 

Figure 3: Lawsone30

Lawsone serves as the primary coloring constituent of henna and is the degradation product of the main glycosides hennoside A, B, and C27.

 

Uses:

Used as an astringent, acrid, diuretic, emetic, expectorant, depurative, liver tonic, haematinic, and anti-inflammatory, it finds application in styptic, jaundice, trichogenous, fever, wounds, bronchitis, ulcers, cough, and rheumatalgia. It addresses conditions like burning sensation, cephalalgia, diarrhea, dysentery, leucoderma, scabies, leprosy, boils, hepatopathy, amenorrhea, splenopathy, anemia, hemorrhages, falling of hair, and greyness of hair28-29. The active constituent of the leaves, lawsone, also exhibits antifungal and antibacterial activity. Used as a preferred hair dye, either alone or in combination, for treating gray hair, it features prominently in various hair care products such as rinses and conditioners27,31.

 

3.     Palash:

Palash consists of the dried seeds, fruits, leaves, and flowers of Butea monosperma Lam., belonging to the family Fabaceae11. The chemical constituents present in different parts of the plant are as follows:  In the flowers, butein is the main chemical constituent responsible for imparting color. Other constituents include monospermoside, β-sitosteron, coreopsin, isocoreopsin, flavonoids (palasitrin and prumetin), and steroids. For the leaves, glucoside and kino-oil containing palmitic acid, lignoceric acid, oleic acid, and linoleic acid are present. In the seeds, the oil contains proteolytic and lipolytic enzymes, plant proteinase, polypeptidase, butin, monospermoside, α-amyrin, and β-sitosterol. The gum contains mucilaginous material, tannins, and pyrocatechin. The bark contains various tannins like kinno-tannic acid, pyrocatechin, along with palasitrin, butolic acid, lupeol, lupenone, gallic acid, cyanidin, shelloic acid, butrin, and histidine. Roots consist of glucose, glycine, glucosides, and various aromatic compounds. Resins contain Z-amyrin, E-sitosterone, glucoside, and sucrose29.

 

Figure 4: Butein 32

 

Uses:

Ayurvedic physicians utilize palash seeds as a remedy for diarrhoea and dysentery. Juices derived from palash roots, bark, and leaves find application in regulating menstrual flow, addressing colic, and combating intestinal worms. Palash leaf ointment is employed to treat inflammation, boils, pimples, and to reduce hemorrhoids11. Leaf also posses antimicrobial property33. The flowers exhibit astringent, depurative, and tonic properties. Moreover, palash demonstrates additional activities, including anti-cancer, anti-diabetic, nephroprotective, anti-inflammatory, anti-stress, antioxidant, and free radical scavenging activities11. Palash dye is used for dyeing of cotton and as a coloring agent in pharmaceutical dosage forms, soft drinks and other food products such as sausages, jam etc29.

 

4.     Saffron:

It comprises dried stigmas and upper parts of the styles of the plant known as Crocus Sativus Linn., belonging to the family Iridaceae34. The chief main active constituents of saffron stigma are carotenoid glycosides: crocin, crocetin, and picrocrocin (4%). Additionally, it contains essential oil, safranal (0.4 to 1.3%). Saffron is rich in over 150 volatile and aroma-yielding compounds, including non-volatile active components. Many of these are carotenoides pigments, such as zeaxanthin, lycopene, various α and β-carotenes, and flavonoids. Saffron also contains fixed oil and starch. Crocin and crocetin, carotenoid pigments, impart a golden yellow-orange color to saffron. Picrocrocin contributes to the bitter taste, while safranal is responsible for the odor and aroma of saffron35.

 

Figure 4:  Corcetin36

 

Uses:

Saffron is utilized for various purposes, including the treatment of whooping cough (pertussis), addressing dry skin problems, alleviating pain and inflammation, and aiding in the healing of second-degree burns. It serves to protect the retina from sun damage and is employed as an antispasmodic, emmenagogue, and stimulant. Additionally, saffron is used in the treatment of sexual dysfunction, functioning as an anti-UV agent, antioxidant, antidepressant, expectorant, nerve sedative, and carminative9,35. In the realm of culinary applications, saffron finds use as a spice, flavoring, and coloring agent. Furthermore, it features prominently in numerous cosmetic formulations, serving as both a coloring and flavoring agent34-35.

 

5.     Annatto:

These are the dried seeds of the plant known as Bixa orellana Linn, belonging to the family Bixaceae12. The chemical constituents in annatto seeds are noteworthy: Each annatto seed is covered with an aril and contains the bixin dye. Annatto seeds comprise approximately 12% annatto oleo resin, of which 50% is water-soluble. The volatile oil content ranges from 0.3% to 0.8%, and the pigment content is about 4% to 5%. The primary constituent of the pigment is bixin, constituting about 70-80% of the pigment. Bixin is a carotenoid carboxylic acid responsible for the yellow color, with isobixin, transbixin, and norbixin as its other isomers. Bixin and norbixin serve as the principal coloring constituents of annatto. Additional constituents present in annatto include crocetin, ishwarane, flavonoids, essential oils, and gallic acid. The root contains triterpene, tomentosic acid37.

 

Figure 5: (a) Bixin (b) Norbixin38

 

Uses

Annatto is used as an antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and anticancer agent. Its leaves play a role in neutralizing snake venom and treating jaundice. Extracts from roots and leaves exhibit potent anti-gonorrheal activity. The foliage of Bixa is utilized for addressing skin problems and hepatitis, serving as an antipyretic, antidysenteric, and aphrodisiac. Furthermore, it is utilized as a coloring agent in various applications, including foods, cosmetics (lipstick), alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages, dairy desserts, fats and oils, as well as in margarine. Annatto dye finds application in leather dyeing37.

 

6.      Tagetus:

It comprises the flowering top of the plant Calendula officinalis, which belongs to the family Asteraceae39. The principal coloring component of the marigold flower is lutein, a fat-soluble carotenoid responsible for the yellow to orange color of the dye40. Lutein is an oxycarotenoid or xanthophyll containing two cyclic end groups and the basic C-40 isoprenoid structure common to all carotenoids41. Other constituents include galenine, lycopene, α-carotene, β-carotene, flavonoids, zeaxanthin, and triterpenoids39

 

Figure 6: Lutein42

 

Uses:

It is utilized as an anti-inflammatory agent, antioxidant agent, anti-diabetic agent, anti-epileptic agent, anti-bacterial agent, antimicrobial agent, insecticidal agent, mosquitocidal agent, and anti-hyperlipidemic agent. The juice extracted from the flowers serves as a remedy for bleeding piles and is also employed in the treatment of rheumatism, colds, and bronchitis43. The carotenoid extracts are deemed acceptable for use in foods, pharmaceuticals, and cosmetics39. Additionally, the flower petals yield a natural dye, with crude extracts utilized for dyeing textiles43.

7.     Shoeblack plant:

It consists of the flowers and leaves of Hibiscus rosasinensis Linn, belonging to the family Malvaceae44. Various bioactive constituents such as tannins, anthraquinones, quinines, phenols, flavonoids, alkaloids, terpenoids, saponins, cardiac glycosides, proteins, free amino acids, carbohydrates, reducing sugars, mucilage, essential oils, and steroids are present in different parts of the plant, each with therapeutic value. The stem and leaves contain stigmasterol, taraxeryl acetate, β-sitosterol, and 3-cyclopropane compounds45. Flowers contain proanthocyanidins and anthocyanins, quercetin-3-diglucoside, kaempferol-3-xylosylglucoside, cyanidin-3,5-diglucoside14. Roots contain tannins, mucilage, flavonoids, and saponins45.

 

Figure 7(a): Quercetin46            Figure 7 (b): β-sitosterol47

 

Uses:

The flowers were historically used for regulating the menstrual cycle, treating liver disorders, hypertension, as an anti-tussive, for stomach pain, addressing eye problems, as an abortifacient, emmenagogue, and aphrodisiac. Young leaves and flowers were utilized for relieving headaches14. The stem bark is considered useful for inducing abortion, while roots are taken as a remedy for stomach disorders, gonorrhea, and blood vomiting45. Petals were applied to stimulate thicker hair growth and prevent premature graying, hair loss, and scalp disorders14. Leaves possess emollient properties and can be used in the treatment of dysentery and diarrhea38. Alcoholic and aqueous extracts of leaves demonstrate anti-infective, anti-dandruff, and prophylactic action against various skin diseases and allergies. The plant exhibits activities such as anti-fertility, anti-diabetic, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial. The essential oil derived from this plant is used in the cosmetic industry, preserving the elasticity and flexibility of the skin and reducing the effects of aging. Flowers are crushed to produce a dark purple dye used for blackening shoes and coloring eyebrows, hairs, and liquors. It is a common ingredient in beauty products like lotions, shampoos, conditioners, and perfumes. Extracts are utilized as flavoring agents in various food products, including jams, sauces, spices, and soups48. It is used for treatment of cough, anxiety, diarrhea, asthma, fever, arthritis, dysentery, genitourinary, vomiting, gastric disorder, cardiac disorder, insect, ringworm, snake bite, malaria and scorpion bites49.

 

 

8.      Madder:

It comprises the dried short rootstock of Rubiacordifolia Linn., belonging to the family Rubiaceae50. Different classes of bioactive compounds, such as anthraquinones and their glycosides, naphthoquinones and glycosides, terpenes, bicyclic hexapeptides, iridoids, carboxylic acids (malic, citric, quinic, rosmarinic acids), and saccharides (xylose, ribose, fructose, glucose, sucrose, primverose), were isolated from various parts of R. cordifolia. The dried roots contain mollugin, furomollugin, eugenol, and (E) anethole as the chief components in the essential oil, with eugenol, geraniol, and geranyl acetate being the most aroma compounds. The roots contain a mixture of purpurin, munjistin, small amounts of xanthopurpurin, and pseudopurpurin. Purpurin is the major coloring principle, while Munjistin is an orange dye that occurs in the form of a glycoside51.

 

Figure 8: Purpurin 52

 

Uses:

It also possesses tonic, astringent, antidysenteric, and antiseptic properties and is used to treat rheumatism50. R. cordifolia can be used as a single drug to cure chikungunya fever. Leaf extract is used during cataracts of the eyes, conjunctivitis, and also to clean the eyes51. The root-derived dye is also used as a textile and hair dye. Madder extracts are commonly used as a colorant for confections and soft drinks due to its advantageous resistance to heat and light. This plant has also been used as natural colorants in food, medicated oils, syrups, etc.51. It is used for dyeing cotton fabrics, blankets, and carpets50. It exhibits activities such as anti-acne, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-microbial, gastro-protective, anti-proliferative, diuretic, anti-diabetic, and wound healing activities53.

 

9.     Red beetroot

Red beetroot belongs to the Beta vulgaris ssp. Vulgaris L. subspecies, Beta vulgaris L. species, Beta L. genus, Betoideae subfamily of the goosefoot family (Amaranthaceae), and the Caryophyllales order54. In addition, the leaves contain a large amount of antioxidant and vitamins, so it can be used as food and cooked as a spinach substitute55.

 

Figure 9: Betanin58

Red beets have betalain pigments so that it has commercial and pharmaceutical uses such as natural food dye, cosmetics and drug formulations56. Its active compounds are carotenoids, glycine betanine, betacyanins, anthrocyanins, tannins, saponins, folates, flavonoids, vitamins, fatty acids and minerals57.

 

Uses:

Traditionally, beet root have diverse medicinal properties together with anti-oxidants, anti-depressants, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, anticarcinogenic, immunomodulatory, diuretic and also used to treat cough. It is used as nutritional supplement that's rich in vitamins, minerals, amino acid and vitamins and has particular phytoconstituents. It is beneficial in the growth of foetus in pregnancy. It is used as natural meals coloration in dairy and meat products57.

 

10.   Carica papaya Linn.

Papaya consists of the fruit of the plant Carica papaya linn. The genus Carica Linn. is represented by four species in India, of which Carica papaya Linn. is the most widely cultivated and best-known species. Among the other species, C. cauliflora Jacq., C. pubescens Lenne and K.Koch and C. quercifolia Benth. and Hook.f. ex Hieron. are possible sources of breeding material for inducing frost and virus resistance in cultivated papaya. Papaya contains broad spectrum of phytochemicals including, polysaccharides, vitamins, minerals, enzymes, proteins, alkaloids, glycosides, fats and oils, lectins, saponins, flavonoids, sterols, etc. Fruits contains protein, fat, fibre, carbohydrates, minerals: calcium, phosphorous, iron, vitamin C, thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, and carotene, amino acids, citric and malic acids (green fruits), volatile compounds: linalool, benzylisothiocyanate, cis and trans 2, 6-dimethyl-3,6 epoxy-7 octen-2-ol, Alkaloid, α; carpaine, benzyl-β-D glucoside, 2-phenylethyl -β-D-glucoside, 4-hydroxyphenyl-2 ethyl-β-D-glucoside and four isomeric malonated benzyl-β-D-glucosides. Seeds contain fatty acids, crude protein, crude fibre, papaya oil, carpaine, benzylisothiocyanate, benzylglucosinolate, glucotropacolin, benzylthiourea, hentriacontane, β-sitosterol, caricin and an enzyme myrosin. Leaves contain Alkaloids carpain, pseudocarpain and dehydrocarpaine I and II, choline, carposide, vitamin C and E59.

 

Figure 10: Carpaine60

 

Uses:    

All parts of the plant are used as a medicine including ripe and unripe fruit, leaf, seed, seed juice, flowers, stem bark and root. Unripe and ripe fruit is made into juice and drinks for treating stomach problems, to relieve obesity and for urinary tract infection. Unripe and ripe fruit is also made into paste as topical dressings or cosmetic (ointment, soap) to treat burns and skin diseases, for general antibacterial activity, and to remove snakebite poison. Seed juice and unripe fruit juice are both used to reduce enlarged spleen and liver. In addition, unripe fruit is powdered, made into paste for treating skin diseases and chewed for anthelmintic and carminative activity, and for treating bleeding piles. Young papaya leaf is eaten as vegetable in some parts of India61. Papaya enhances the flavour by preparing a papaya sauce instead of butter cake as a fat replacer62.

 

CONCLUSION:

Natural dyes not only have coloring properties but also possess a wide range of medicinal benefits. Fortunately, there is increasing awareness among people regarding natural dyes and plants that yield dyes. Due to their non-toxic nature, minimal side effects, and enhanced medicinal values, natural dyes are used in day-to-day food products and the pharmaceutical industry. In the present scenario, growing global concerns about the use of azo and benzidine synthetic dyes, given their carcinogenic, non-biodegradable nature and hazardous effects on the environment and human health, have reinforced the need for natural dyes in human society, especially in packaging and daily-use products. Natural dyeing is gradually gaining traction in the global market, and the production of naturally dyed eco-friendly textiles is a significant step towards preserving the environment from the harmful effects of synthetic dyes. This review focuses on various herbal plants with diverse pharmacological effects, particularly their applications in cosmetics. Additionally, the review highlights the available formulations of natural dyes in the market.

 

CONFLICT OF INTEREST:

The authors have no conflicts of interest regarding this investigation.

 

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

The authors express their sincere thanks to Principal, Teaching and non-teaching staff of Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh, Gujarat, India for providing guidance and support to this review work.

 

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Received on 01.12.2023         Modified on 27.04.2024

Accepted on 29.07.2024   ©Asian Pharma Press All Right Reserved

Asian J. Pharm. Res. 2024; 14(3):227-234.

DOI: 10.52711/2231-5691.2024.00036