A Review on Herbal Components used for Polyherbal Facewash

 

Hiral S. Popaniya1*, Payal N. Vaja2, Chintankumar J. Tank3,

Hetal Suva4, Dhruti Rathod5

1Assistant Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

2Assistant Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

3Professor, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

4Research Scholar, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

5Research Scholar, School of Pharmacy, Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh (362001), Gujarat, India.

*Corresponding Author E-mail: hpopaniya@gmail.com

 

ABSTRACT:

Cosmetics, derived from the Greek word "kosmetikos," are substances used to enhance, cleanse, and promote attractiveness. Face wash has evolved to address various skin concerns, including acne and aging. Herbal cosmetics, utilizing plant-based products, offer aesthetically pleasing physiological effects such as skin healing and smoothening. Their mild and non-toxic nature, along with natural ingredients like oils and extracts, contribute to their benefits. They are rich in nutrients, environmentally friendly, and economically viable, making them a preferred choice for consumers seeking natural alternatives The skin's multi-layered structure, including the epidermis, dermis, and hypodermis, plays a crucial role in protecting against external threats, regulating body temperature, and preserving moisture. Face wash products serve therapeutic purposes, including antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, anti-acne, and antioxidant properties. Herbal face wash products, derived from various botanical families, contribute to their therapeutic and aesthetic properties. The integration of various herbs such as Aloe vera, Rosemary, Buckwheat seeds, Betel-nut palm, Calendula, Babchi, Burdock root, Chia, Sacha inchi, and Jojoba oil into face wash formulations further enriches the landscape.  In summary, this literature review provides a comprehensive understanding of herbal cosmetics, the formulation of face wash products, their benefits, and therapeutic applications.

 

KEYWORDS: Cosmetics, Herbal Cosmetic, Skin, Face Wash.

 

 


INTRODUCTION:

Cosmetics:

The word “cosmetic” originated from the “kosmetikos”, which means having the influence, arrangement and ability to decorate1. According to D&C acts 1940 and Rules 1945, cosmetics are the substances which are used to be rubbed, poured, spread or applied to the body or any part of body for enhancing the beauty of person or for cleansing or promoting attractiveness of the body2. Cosmetics are designed to minimize wrinkles, combat acne and regulate oil secretion.

 

Formulations for various types of skin disease such as skin protection, sunscreen, anti-acne, anti-wrinkle and anti-aging are created3. People worldwide extensively use cosmetics as effective products to maintain and enhance the overall appearance of the face and other body parts, including the hands, mouth, fingers, hair, lips and eyes1. Cosmetics are constituted by mixtures of chemical compounds obtained from either natural sources or synthetically created ones4.

 

Herbal Cosmetics:

These are cosmetics that use plant products that have cosmetic action.4 Physiological effects that are aesthetically pleasing, such as skin healing, skin smoothening or the enhancement of the body’s appearance are achieved by plant-based cosmetics2.

 


Fig-1 Different types of cosmetics

 


The increased use of botanicals in cosmetics recently is mainly because of their mild action and non-toxic nature. In cosmetics, both Phyto-ingredients and natural supplements are used. Natural products include oils, extracts, secretions etc. Phyto-ingredients include pure constituents obtained by various processes4. The World Health Organization (WHO) states that approximately 80% of the global population relies on natural products for healthcare because of the side effects and rising costs of modern medicine5.

 

Advantages of Herbal Cosmetics:1

1.     No side effects or allergic reactions

2.     Maximum activity with a lesser dose

3.     Easy preparation

4.     More stability, purity and efficacy

5.     Lack of harsh chemicals

6.     Nutrition rich

7.     Economically Affordable

8.     Eco-friendly

 

Types of cosmetics:6

Cosmeceutical preparations classified on the basis of application on the body parts which include. (Figure-1).

 

Face Wash:

Face wash refers to products that clean the face without drying it out. Another term for face wash is "cleanser"7.

A face wash is a type of facial cleanser specifically designed to remove makeup, dirt, oil, dead skin cells, and other impurities from the skin of the face. It helps unclog pores and prevents skin conditions such as acne, leaving the skin feeling clean and refreshed. People typically use a face wash as part of their daily skincare routine, along with a toner and moisturizer8. In ancient times, women were highly aware of their beauty and adorned themselves to enhance their appearance. Even today, especially in rural and hilly regions, people continue to prefer natural remedies like plant extracts such as buckwheat seed and aloe vera for cosmetic purposes9. The face skin, which indicates the health of an individual, is an important part of the body10. A gentle cleanser called face wash keeps the skin clean, germ-free, smooth, and fresh, while also moisturizing the horny layer without irritating the skin7.

 

During summer, excessive heat exposure dehydrates the skin, causing wrinkles, blemishes, pigmentation, and sunburns. In winter, extreme conditions damage the skin, leading to cracks, cuts, and infections. Skin diseases affect people of all age groups and can result from exposure to microbes, chemical agents, biological toxins, and malnutrition11. Exfoliation is crucial for enhancing blood circulation and encouraging skin rejuvenation and renewal. It offers significant advantages to people dealing with enlarged facial pores and oily skin due to excessive sebum production by sebaceous glands, leading to clogged and greasier skin. To tackle this issue, cleansers infused with herbs and botanicals efficiently clear the pores and diminish excess oil. These exfoliating cleansers also feature anti-inflammatory components and antioxidants, aiding in the enhancement and nourishment of compromised skin5. Regular soaps have the potential to dry out delicate facial skin, which is particularly fragile. A face wash serves as a mild cleanser that effectively cleanses without causing irritation to the skin. Consequently, the skin appears youthful and vibrant12. The purpose of a face wash might encompass cleansing, anti-wrinkle, anti-acne, moisturizing, and promoting skin fairness. Skin whitening products are believed to influence melanin synthesis and metabolism in the skin by inhibiting melanin production in melanocytes, thus reducing the overall melanin content12. Heals Scars, prevent skin Infection, Purifies Skin, remove blackheads, Remove Pimples, Treats Pigmentation

 

Benefits of Face-wash:7

1.     Heals Scars,

2.     Prevent skin Infection,

3.     Purifies Skin,

4.     Remove blackheads,

5.     Remove Pimples,

6.     Treats Pigmentation

 

 

Forms of Face Wash:13

1. Gel based face wash

2. Cream based face wash

3. Liquid based face wash

 

Powdered face washes are becoming popular. While face washes typically work well for all skin types, nowadays there are various products tailored for specific skin conditions. For instance, there are face washes designed for oily skin, formulated without oils and leaving a light, oily film on the skin. These specialized face washes are now widely available in the market.

1.   Oily skin face wash

2.   Dry skin face wash

3.   Normal skin face wash Feature of face wash

 

Additives use for face wash:

Gelling agent:14

Gelling agents are substances capable of transforming water or oil phases into a gel, making them thickened yet not stiff. Emulsions thickened with these agents are more fluid and mobile rather than rigid. Some of these gels become thinner under applied force (thixotropic) and return to their original viscosity when the force is removed. These gels enable the creation of thick products that can be easily poured or sprayed, allowing for smoother bottling and handling under high shear conditions. Ex. Xanthan gum.

 

Preservative:15

Preservatives are utilized to prolong the shelf life of products. Certain organisms used for this purpose can produce harmful substances known as toxins. For instance, methyl paraben and propyl paraben are examples of such preservatives.

 

Humectant:16

A humectant is a moisture-absorbing substance employed to maintain the moisture content of objects, acting in contrast to desiccants. Typically, humectants consist of molecules with multiple hydrophilic groups, predominantly hydroxyl groups. These substances absorb and retain moisture from the surrounding air, drawing water vapor into and beneath the surface of organisms or objects, Ex. Honey, Coconut oil.

 

Foaming agent:17

A foaming agent is a substance that aids in the creation of foam, such as a surfactant or a blowing agent. Surfactants, when used in minimal quantities, lower the surface tension of a liquid (making it easier to create foam) or enhance its colloidal stability by preventing bubble coalescence. Meanwhile, a blowing agent is a gas that constitutes the gaseous component of the foam, Ex, saponin.

 

 

Therapeutic application of face wash:

Antimicrobial:16

Antimicrobial antibiotics are substances that inhibit the growth and reproduction of bacteria in a broad sense. Both antibiotics and antimicrobials can kill bacteria, although their definitions have evolved over time. Presently, antimicrobials are defined as substances utilized to disinfect surfaces and eliminate potentially harmful microorganisms.

 

Anti-inflammatory:18

Anti-inflammatory substances or treatments can reduce swelling and irritation. These medications constitute about half of all pain relievers and function by reducing inflammation, unlike narcotics, which act on the central nervous system to block pain signals to the brain.

 

Anti-acne:18

Acne is a skin condition causing outbreaks of lesions known as pimples or "zits." The prevalent form among adolescents is called acne vulgaris. Antiacne medications assist in clearing pimples, blackheads, whiteheads, and more severe lesions that occur during an acne outbreak in teenagers.

 

Anti-oxidant:17

Antioxidants are natural substances or compounds that can help prevent or delay cell damage. Fruits and vegetables, for example, are rich in antioxidants. Dietary supplements containing antioxidants, such as lycopene, Vitamin A, Vitamin C, and Vitamin E, are also readily available options.

 

Properties of face wash:18

·       Exfoliation enhances skin rejuvenation and renewal by boosting blood circulation.

·       Overactive sebaceous glands produce excess sebum, clogging pores and making the skin oily.

·       Cleansers containing herbs and botanicals that clear pores and reduce oil build up are essential for oily skin. These exfoliating cleansers with soothing and antioxidant ingredients help repair and nourish damaged skin.

·       It needs to be both sturdy and visually appealing.

·       When applied to the skin, it should be gentle.

·       It should be easy to distribute without dragging.

·       It should not feel greasy or oily during application.

·       Instead of absorption, its primary effect should be skin flushing and pore opening.

·       After application, a thin emollient layer should remain on the skin.

 

Functions of face wash:19

·       Face wash is a cosmetic used for facial care to cleanse the skin.

·       Rejuvenating skin cells reduces stress.

·       It eliminates oil, dirt, and impurities.

·       It exfoliates dead cells from the skin.

·       It promotes the regeneration and renewal of skin cells.

·       It aids in proper penetration of other products into the skin.

 

Table 1: Herbs used in face wash

Herbs

Biological Source

Family

Aloe vera

Cape Aloe

Liliaceae

Rosemary

Rosmarinus Officinalis

Lamiaceae

Buckwheat seeds

Fagopyrum Esculentum

Polygonacee

Betel-nut palm

Areca Catechu

Palmae

Calendula

Calendula Officinalis

Asteraceae

Babchi

Psoralea Corylifolia

Leguminosae

Burdock root

Arctium Lappa l.

Asteraceae

Chia

Salvia Hispanica

Lamiaceae

Sacha inchi

Plukenetia Volubilis

Euphorbiaceous

Jojoba oil

Simmondsia Chinenesis

Simmondsiaceae

 

1. Aloe vera:20,25

Aloe vera also known as Aloe, Musabbar, Kumari. Aloe is the dried juice collected by incision from the bases of leaves of various species of aloes, Cape aloe, Curacao aloe, Socotrine aloe, Zanzibar aloe, belonging to the Liliaceae family. It is come from Anthraquinone Glycoside Category. Aloevera contains Barbaloin, Aloin, Iso-barbaloin, Aloe-emodin, Resin, Aloesin, Aloinoside A & B, Aloetic acid, Chrysophanic acid, Chrysamminic acid, Galactouronic acid, Choline, Choline Salicylate. Mechanism of action of aloe vera is Aloe vera stimulates the production of collagen and elastin fibers, making the skin more elastic and reducing wrinkles. It softens the skin by sticking superficial flaking cells together. Aloe's amino acids and zinc content further soften hardened skin cells and tighten pores. Research shows it's effective in treating dry skin, reducing wrinkles, and decreasing redness. Additionally, it has anti-acne properties.

 

Fig-2(a) Aloin                              Fig-2(b) Aloesin

 

Uses:

Aloe vera serves multiple roles in Minor burn and skin burn, Hepatoprotective potential, Soothes sunburns, Treat dry skin, Lightens scars and blemishes. Aloe vera has anti-aging and Tyrosinase inhibitor properties.

 

2. Rosemary:26,30

It is known as Gulmehendi, Rujamari, Rosmarini. It consists Oil of Rosemary is distilled from the flowering tops of leafy twigs of Rosmarinus officinalis, which belongs to the family Lamiaceae. The active constituent of the rosemary is Carnosic acid, Rosmarinic acid, Carnosol, Ursolic acid, Linalool, Camphor, 1,8-cineol. It is come from volatile Oil Category. Mechanism of action of Rosemary gives antioxidant effect, Antioxidants prevent the formation of harmful molecules (ROS) by directly neutralizing them. They reduce the levels of these harmful molecules in and around our cells, stop them from harming our cells, and hinder their spread. This process helps prevent oxidative stress, which in turn slows down the aging process.

 

Fig-3(a) Carnosic acid                 Fig-3(b)Carnosol

 

Fig-3(c) Rosmarinic acid

 

Uses:

Used as an Antibacterial, Antioxidant, Anti-inflammatory, Antitumor, Antidiabetic, Relaxant effect on smooth muscle, Used in aromatherapy, Carminative and Mild irritant, Used as a strong preservative.

 

3. Buckwheat Seed:31,34

It is Known as Beach Wheat, Kuttu. Buckwheat consists from seeds of Fagopyrum Sculentum Moenc, belonging to the family Polygonaceae. It is come from Flavonoids Category. The chemical constituents present is Orientin, Isoorientin, Vitexin, Isovitexin, Rutin, Quercetrin.

 

Fig-4(a) Rutin                                          Fig-4(b) Quarcetin

 

Uses:

It is act as an Anti-oxidant and other uses of buckwheat is Support skin's elasticity, Anti-aging ingredient in skincare, Effects of aging such as wrinkles while promoting longevity.

 

1.          4. Betel Nut Palm:35,37

Synonyms of betel nut palm is Supari, Areca nut, Indian nut. It comprises Seeds derived from Areca Catechu Palm tree, belonging to the family Palmae. It is from Alkaloids Category. The chemical constituents of betel nut palm are Arecoline, Arecaidine, Guvacine, Guvacoline, Polyphenols, Including tannins and alkaloids,Catechin.The Mechanism of action is Extract from arecanut is found to inhibit elastase and hyaluronidase enzymes in the skin tissues. After purification, it was identified as a phenolic substance, showing competitive inhibition with the substrate. These findings imply that this phenolic substance from A. catechu has anti-aging effects by safeguarding connective tissue.

 

 

Fig-5 Arecoline

 

Uses:

Uses of Areca Cathechu is Effective against free radicals, contains anti-enzymes that resist wrinkles, Inhibit tyrosinase enzymes

 

5.Calendula:38,42

It is also known as Calendula, Pot marigold, Common marigold. These are the dried Flower of the plant known as Calendula Officinalis Linn, belonging to the family Lamiaceae. It is come from Terpenoids, Flavonoids, Triterpeneol esters Category. The chemical constituents in Calendula are Oleanic Acid, Lupeol, Quercetin, α Amyrin, β Amyrin. Mechanism of action is Essential fatty acids like linoleic acid in calendula oil or extract can effectively nourish your skin. They enable skin cells to absorb nutrients and maintain hydration for extended periods, especially beneficial for dry skin. Calendula-infused products can enhance skin softness, suppleness, and overall nourishment. 

 

Fig-6(a) Lupeol

 

Fig-6(b) Oleanic acid

 

Uses:

Calendula is used as an antioxidant, antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, and antiviral agent. It has a Soothing Properties and act as an Antiseptic, Hepatoprotective, Antidiabetic medicine.

6.Babchi:43,47

It is also known as Bawachi, Backuchi, Psoralea seeds, Malay tea. Psoralea consists of dried ripe fruits and seeds of Psoralea corylifolia, which belongs to the family Leguminosae. It is come from Essential oil and Flavonoids Category. The active constituents in backuchi are Buckuchiol, Isopsoralen, Psoralen, Bakuchalcone, Corylifolin, Psoralidin Mechanism of action of bakuchiol is helps prevent retinal damage by reducing ganglion cell death. It inhibits the formation of reactive oxygen species and mitochondrial dysfunction caused by oxidative stress in HepG2 hepatocytes, suggesting its potential in slowing down the aging process.

 

Fig-7(a) Buckuchiol                  Fig-7(b) Isopsoralen

 

Uses:

It is utilized as an Antibacterial activity, Antifungal, Antiviral activity, Protective Effect, Chemo preventive effects, Antioxidant, Anti psoriatic, Antiaging, Treat skin condition(anti-acne).

 

7.Burdock root:48,50

It is also known as Jungali kuth, Greater burdock, Gobo, Goboshi. It consist from roots of Arctium Lappa L., belonging to the family Asteraceae. It is come from Flavonoids category. Various bioactive constituents such as Arctiin, Arctigenin, Sesquiterpenes and sesquiterpene lactones, Acetylenic compounds, Phenolic acids, Flavonoid glycosides, Alkaloids.

 

Fig-8(a) Arctiin

 

Fig-8(b) Arctigenin

 

Uses:

Used as a Acne, Allergies, Anti-inflammatory, Antioxidant, Psoriasis, Senility/Aging Conditions, Skin disorders, Cell regeneration, Cleansing, Detoxifying.

 

8.Chia:51,57

It is known as Chia, Cheeya, Sweet basil seed. It consists from seeds of Salvia Hispanica, belonging to the family Lamiaceae. It is come from Flavonoids category. The Chemical constituents are Apigenin, Luteolin, Orientin, Myricetin, Vitexin. Mechanism of action of chia is, the use of apigenin can safeguard against and reduce the activity of MMP-1(Matrix Metalloproteinases), an endopeptidase enzyme that breaks down the collagen matrix. A damaged collagen matrix leads to reduced elasticity and dry skin.

 

Fig-9 (a) Apigenin

 

Fig-9 (b) Luteolin

 

Uses:

It also possesses Reducing signs of premature aging and wrinkles, Boost skin glow and health, Antioxidant, Act as an excellent skin moisturizer, Anti-inflammatory, Hypolipemic, Hypoglycemic, Hepatoprotective.

 

9.Sacha inchi:58,60

Synonyms of sacha inchi Ountain peanut, sacha peanut or Inca nut. It comprises the dried seed of Plukenetia Volubilis, belonging to the family Euphorbiaceous. It is come from Fatty acid category. The chemical consituents α -Linolenic acid, Linoleic acids, p-Anisidine.

 

 

Fig-10 α-linolenic acid

 

Uses: Calm irritated skin, Reduce redness associated with acne, Antioxidant, Anti inflammatory, Anti acne, Anti psoriatic.

 

10.Jojoba oil:61,63

It is known as Jojoba pignut, Deer nut, Goat nut, Wild hazel. Jojoba oil is a liquid wax expressed from the seeds of Simmondsia Chinensis, belonging to the family Simmondsiaceae. It is come from Wax category. Different classes of bioactive compounds, such as Eicosenoic acid, Docosenoic acid.

 

 

Fig-11 Eicosenoic acid

Uses:

It also possesses Antioxidant, Anti-acne, Anti psoriasis, Anti-inflammatory, Antifungal, Antipyretic, Analgesic, Antimicrobial.

CONCLUSION:

In this review, we looked closely at herbal cosmetics, with a specific focus on herbal face wash. Skin is the most important part of our body and the color is determined by the presence of melanin in the skin. We discussed many of herbs and chemical constituents present in the herbs which are used as skin care agents and also as skin whitening agents. Plants like Aloe vera, Rosemary, Buckwheat seeds, Betel-nut palm, Calendula, etc. Aloin, Rosmarinic acid, Rutin, Arecoline, Lupeol and many other phytoconstituents which are used in herbal cosmetic as skin care agents in cosmetic industries. Some of flavonoids and triterpenoids present in these herbs show their effect as antioxidant and skin whitening agents.

 

CONFLICT OF INTEREST:

The authors have no conflicts of interest regarding this investigation.

 

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT:

The authors express their sincere thanks to Dean, Teaching and non-teaching staff of Dr. Subhash University, Junagadh, Gujarat, India for providing guidance and support to this review work.

 

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Received on 12.01.2024         Modified on 17.05.2024

Accepted on 24.07.2024  ©Asian Pharma Press All Right Reserved

Asian J. Pharm. Res. 2024; 14(3):319-325.

DOI: 10.52711/2231-5691.2024.00050